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I get it: I worry for my favourite Latin American hole-in-the-wall businesses, because after years of false starts, once-thrifty Kensington Market is undergoing an artisanal facelift. Cold-pressed juiceries, twee cookery stores and a pricy barbecue takeout now live side by side, somewhat awkwardly, with the El Gordo food court, where one counter sells soft-serve ice cream in a churro cone, and the mom-and-pop restaurant El Trompo, which was one of the first in Toronto to wrap tacos al pastor in hand-slapped corn tortillas.


My worries, so far, have been for naught. In a sense, Kensington Market was always waiting to become Little Mexico. Augusta Avenue, with its patched-together, graffitied, tin-sided storefronts, could pass, with minimal set dressing, for a Juarez barrio in one of the more serious Jennifer Lopez movies with Lopez as a cop with something to prove, not as a Cinderella figure. Kensington Avenue, with its leafy canopy, soap bubbles floating out of psychedelic stores and bumper-to-bumper VW vans, reminds me of the yoga-on-the-beach town of Tulum, the sort of place where hours pass slower and smoothies are the principal food group.

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The last time I stopped in, I lucked into one of the few remaining special-of-the-day tacos, containing a full fillet of pan-roasted steelhead trout, the flesh pink and the skin crispy-crackling. In the spring, Riehl took over the lease of a storefront across the street, opening a paleteria, also called Seven Lives, to peddle sorbets I liked the prickly pear and tequila , soft-serve sundaes, and a mesmerizing case of fancy popsicles in flavours such as hibiscus, mango-chili and passion fruit cheesecake.

Arturo Anhalt, who co-owns the group of Milagro restaurants, opened San Cosme earlier this year. He struck a balance between Mexican authenticity—which mostly takes the form of imported tamarind candies, Corona, sugary pop and furiously bubbly Topo Chico sparkling water—and loyalty to the neighbourhood. The banjo-carriers on the other side of the glass will stare with jealousy. Van Gameren has an exacting reputation to live up to, so El Rey promised to be something more than just another taco shop.

He and Walker hired two talented Montreal chefs, husband and wife Julio Guajardo and Kate Chomyshyn, whose menu for El Rey is short: a dozen items, many of which are snacks, like pinwheel-shaped chips with salsa, or chili pepper—dusted popcorn. It looks modest, but the results are special.

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Official Document Translation in French and Spanish

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